Tour Divide Day 21.

205km. Chama to Pueblo Pintada.
Total time: 16.5 hours.

...Is this real life?...
...Is this just fantasy?...
...Caught in a landslide...
...No escape from reality...

When the credits role on my adventure, this is the song that I hope will be playing. So, I don't know all of the lyrics really, and I haven't shot anyone, but I imagine that it is a metaphor for my personal inner struggle...and my eventual victory over my weaknesses (I can hope). Also, the swings in musical style seem to match my experience pretty well. At the end of this, I want to be rocking out like Wayne and Garth.

The three amigos caught up to and passed me about half way through the day, but I saw them again when I arrived in Cuba. Our detour around the forest fires put us in to Cuba about a day before we would have arrived, based on how long it took other Dividers to get through. In some respects, it is a shame to miss that section. Then again, I needed a day like this and the light at the end of the tunnel just got brighter. I feel as though I can see around me now and enjoy it more (I hope this lasts!).

Today was forgiving in terrain and in weather. No major climbs. A mix of gravel and pavement. A moderately cloudy sky to keep the heat down. Black clouds on one side were filled with ash from the fires. Black clouds on the other were filled with lightning. And there was no headwind for the first 60kms and the last 20kms of the day.

Relationships are funny on this trip. I've maintained my ignorance of their last names and contact information for the three amigos because, somehow, I think it is nicer that way. I want to stay with them, but I have resisted the temptation to do so in an organized way. I want some element of chance. Some way to see how things are different when you know that you may never see someone again.

John decided to stay in Cuba for the night and get some rest. I wanted some more mileage for the day. So did Luke and Dan. I was a bit sad to see these guys part. I've enjoyed imagining them together at the mexican border with big black sombreros. That was a great movie.

Heading out of Cuba, I rode a ways back from Luke and Dan (I can't keep up). Then I got a flat (the first of the trip) and the gap widened. I suspected that I might see them in Pueblo Pintada, about 85kms out, as that was the major service point between. In any case, that was going to be my destination.

I passed an Indian reservation around sunset and saw some navahos on horses. Maybe not the kind that first come to mind. These were young guys dressed a bit like 50 cent. It was cool anyway.

I rode the last several hours in the dark. Several magnificent hours. Traffic dies down. The wind dies down. The temperature is perfect and you can hear crickets. There is very little light pollution and the sky is clear (we are now west of the smoke). I could see shooting stars. It was sooo nice.

I found a place that I thought was the Pueblo service point. No sign of Dan or Luke. No problem. But, there were dogs, so I opted to find a spot near a church that I'd seen about a kilometre back. That effort was fruitless as I roused three dogs. Those little things then chased me for some time.

So, I kept going. I felt good. It was probably some of the most comfortable riding that I've had on the trip. I felt like I could go all night. I eventually found the real Pueblo and I found Luke and Dan camped at the gas station/industrial center of town/only store in. 50 mile radius.

There is a dog who seems friendly and keeps pestering us. He must be able to smell the macdonalds grease on us. And the generator beside me keeps going on and off. But I'm tired enough to sleep through it.

I stink, I'm dirty, I'm tired, I'm sleeping on gravel at a gas station in the middle of New Mexico. And I love it.
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